Forget bus tours and taxis -- walking is really the only way to explore Prague. Most of the oldest areas are walking zones with limited motor traffic. It's best to wear very comfortable, preferably flat, shoes. The crevasses between the bricks in the street have been known to eat stiletto heels. You might want to get in shape for all this walking before you leave home.

Here are some recommended routes, but don't worry about following the maps too closely -- getting lost among the twisting narrow streets is also a wonderful way to discover Prague. Let the turns take you where they may; they usually lead to something memorable.

Organized "City Walks"--Nine thematic walking tours are on the menu of a company called City Walks. It's run by experienced English-speaking guides, who will help you discover Prague, its past and present, from different perspectives. To find out more about the tours call tel. 222-244-531, or go to www.praguewalkingtours.com.